Below is a list of materials you will need to for this workshop.
Feel free to use the supplies you already have that are similar to what I have listed below.
I have prepared a list for you to make your life easier but I still recommend you check out the list below as you will learn valuable information. For the pre-set list, simply go here and add the items to your cart.
This is a suggestion. At the end of the day, you only truly NEED the primary colors. But some colors are just really beautiful right off the tube and here are my suggestions for a starting palette:
- Titanium White
- Cadmium Yellow
- Yellow Green
- Cobalt Blue
- Ultramarine Blue
- Cerulean Blue
- Alizarin Crimson
- Cadmium Red
- Burnt Sienna
- Ivory Black
- Burnt umber
- Raw umber
- Yellow ochre
Greens can be mixed from blues and yellows, but permanent green light, sap green are helpful for landscapes
Specific pigments cost more than others (particularly cobalt and cadmiums). Some of these expensive colors are also available as “hues,” which are less expensive because there’s less concentration of pigment.
Brands I usually buy are: Winsor&Newton, Blick and Charvin.
You can find some interesting reviews on brands here.
Cleaner and mediums
Mineral Spirits: Gamblin Gamsol is my favorite and one of the safer thinners but you can get Turpenoid (also odorless but hazardous) or any other variation of turpentine.
Mineral spirits are similar to turpentine in terms of toxicity. The odor is reduced, but not the hazardous qualities. Use with ventilation.
Palette & easel
You will need a palette for mixing the paint.
You will also need an easel, or if painting a small canvas, just lay it over the table. The easel helps to keep the canvas at a good angle for you to see and work.
I recommend you start with a mid-size tabletop easel.
Bring a selection of brushes you are most comfortable using.
Good brushes make painting easier, but you have to take good care of your investment. I prefer to buy cheap as I often forget to clean!
You can use bristle brushes, for heavier application or textured strokes.
Sable or soft, synthetic, sable-type brushes for finer blending and greater control.
Canvas or gesso boards
Use what you want and what you are comfortable with.
Some people prefer painting large, some small. I will be working with 10x10 for demos.
There is no need to pre-tone your canvas before coming but you can if that makes you more comfortable. It is a way to get past the “fear of the white canvas” ;-)
Toning your canvas
Beginning with a toned surface makes it easier to gauge comparative darks and lights. Highlights are important to the composition, and if the canvas is white, they are harder to visualize.
To tone, you’ll lightly cover your surface with a thin coating of paint (such as raw umber).
Squeeze some raw umber onto your palette and mix with a bit of solvent to create a fairly thin wash. Use a large, soft brush to cover your canvas then wipe with a soft cloth (old T-shirts work well) for an even, smooth layer of medium tone.
It’s fine to be able to see some of the canvas show through. Allow this to dry for 15-20 minutes.
Canvas or prepared boards
You can use a pre-stretched and primed canvas (most common choice)
If you prefer a smoother surface you can try boards.
There are three main types to choose from:
- Paper palettes are disposable pads of waxy paper that can be thrown away after a single use.
- Glass palettes are easy to clean with a palette knife or razor blade.
- Wood palettes that are lightweight are easy to hold while painting, and the wood color provides a neutral background.
I personally prefer wood but it is absolutely up to YOU.
Now get your supplies ready and join me in class!